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The Best Portable AC Unit

The Best Portable Air Conditioner

Updated July 25th, 2026
nine portable air conditioners we've tested

2026 Test Results

Over the last several years we bought and tested 8 different portable air conditioners. A few weeks ago, we bought 10 additional units for testing.

We bought five models with very high cooling capacity (10,000+ SACC BTUs).

Traditional BTUs SACC BTUs
Midea Duo (MAP14S1TBL-A) 14,000 12,000
Whynter ARC-1230WN 14,000 12,000
GE PPHH12WWF 12,000 12,000
LG LP1025WHSM 14,000 10,200
Frigidaire FHPC142AA1 14,000 10,000
Whirlpool WHNP141AW 14,000 10,000

In addition, we also bought four of the cheapest portable AC units of the market. We wanted to see how these “low BTU” units would compare to the “high BTU” units above in real world testing.

Traditional BTUs SACC BTUs
Black+Decker BPACT05SM 8,500 5,100
Dreo AC318S 8,000 5,000
Shinco SPF1-08C 8,000 4,550
SereneLife SLPAC8 8,000 4,000
new cooling test

First up is our new cooling test. To begin this test we heated up a 100 sq. ft. room to just over 90° F using two 1500 watt ceramic space heaters. We then allowed for a few minutes of natural temperature decay in the room, before we powered on each AC unit to measure how long it would take to lower temperature in the room from 86° F down to 72° F.

We tested each model three times

  • Once in the morning at an average outdoor temperature of 83° F
  • Once in the early afternoon at an average outdoor temperature of 89° F
  • Once in the late afternoon at an average outdoor temperature of 91° F

Test results are listed below.

Morning Test - Outdoor Temp Avg is 83° F

Minutes to Cool from 86° down to 72° F Room Temp. (°F) after 1 Hr.*
Midea Duo (MAP14S1TBL-A) 12 63.1
Whynter ARC-1230WN 10.7 63.0
GE PPHH12WWF 13.2 63.7
LG LP1025WHSM 19.5 67.3
Frigidaire FHPC142AA1 21.7 68.4
Whirlpool WHNP141AW 17.8 66.9
Black+Decker BPACT05SM 43.3 71.4
Dreo AC318S 45.5 71.6
Shinco SPF1-08C NA 72.5
SereneLife SLPAC8 NA 73.0

Notes

The Shinco and SereneLife could not achieve a room temperature of 72° F. Both models could only get the room's temperature down to 73.0° F. The Shinco did so in 41.8 minutes. The SereneLife got room temperature down from 86° F to 72° F in 51.3 minutes.

*After 2 hours for low BTU models.

Early Afternoon Test - Outdoor Temp Avg is 89° F

Minutes to Cool from 86° down to 72° F Room Temp. (°F) after 1 Hr.*
Midea Duo (MAP14S1TBL-A) 14.7 65.3
Whynter ARC-1230WN 13.3 64.4
GE PPHH12WWF 14.7 64.2
LG LP1025WHSM 28.5 70.2
Frigidaire FHPC142AA1 33 70.5
Whirlpool WHNP141AW 36 70.7
Black+Decker BPACT05SM NA 74.5
Dreo AC318S NA 74.1
Shinco SPF1-08C NA 75.7
SereneLife SLPAC8 NA NA

Notes

None of the low BTU units we tested were able to achieve a room temperature of 72° F under these conditions. We did see variance though in how quickly they could get room temperature down to 76.1° F. The Black+Decker did so in 17.8 minutes. The Dreo did so in 19.3 minutes, and the Shinco did so in 27.5 minutes.

The SereneLife SLPAC8 shut down midway through testing likely from overheating.

Late Afternoon Test - Outdoor Temp Avg is 91° F

Minutes to Cool from 86° down to 72° F Room Temp. (°F) after 1 Hr.*
Midea Duo (MAP14S1TBL-A) 17.2 65.7
Whynter ARC-1230WN 16.2 65.3
GE PPHH12WWF 16.5 66.0
LG LP1025WHSM 46.2 71.6
Frigidaire FHPC142AA1 NA 72.7
Whirlpool WHNP141AW 56.0 72.0
Black+Decker BPACT05SM NA 76.6
Dreo AC318S NA 76.3
Shinco SPF1-08C NA 77.4
SereneLife SLPAC8 NA NA

Notes

At an outdoor temperature of 91° F, even the 10,000 SACC BTU Frigidaire FHPC142AA1 was not able to achieve a room temperature of 72.0° F in under one hour.

Lower BTU units also performed poorly in this test. Comparing how long it took each low BTU model to lower room temperature from 86° F down to 78.1° F, the Black+Decker was again the fastest, taking 15.7 minutes to do so. The Dreo was again second fastest (among low BTU units), taking 21.5 minutes. And the Shinco was again in third place, taking 30 minutes. The SereneLife again shut down midway through testing (likely because of overheating).

Main takeaways from this testing:

1.  Outdoor temperature is a major factor impacting the cooling performance of portable AC units. Performance drops dramatically as outdoor temperature increases throughout a hot summer day.

2. 12,000 SACC BTU models (the Midea MAP14S1TBL-A, Whynter ARC-1230WN, and GE PPHH12WWF) performed substantially better than 10,000 SACC BTU models (LG LP1025WHSM, Frigidaire FHPC142AA1, etc.). They were more than twice as fast cooling the room to 72.0° F (at higher outdoor temperatures) and achieved a much lower room temperature after one hour.

4. Low SACC BTU models (Black+Decker BPACT05SM, Dreo AC318S, etc.) performed very poorly in these tests, even at lower outdoor temperatures, and despite the fact that testing was conducted in a fairly small 10x10 ft. room.

Hose and Vent Temperature

measuring Whirlpool's hose temperature with IR thermometer

After completing the first cooling test above (after one hour of runtime), we also measured hose and vent temperature:

  Hose Temp. (°F) Vent Temp. (°F)
Midea Duo (MAP14S1TBL-A) 78-79 45
Whynter ARC-1230WN 85-86 44
GE PPHH12WWF 100-101 45
LG LP1025WHSM 105-106 42-43
Frigidaire FHPC142AA1 99-100 40-43
Whirlpool WHNP141AW 107-108 45-46
Black+Decker BPACT05SM 94-95 52-53
Dreo AC318S 93-94 53-54
Shinco SPF1-08C 98-99 51-52
SereneLife SLPAC8 95-96 53-54

For the hose temperature test we measured the hottest part of each model's exhaust hose. As you can see the Midea and Whynter have the lowest readings ("coldest" hoses). That is because they feature a "hose-in-hose" design. With this design the hot exhaust hose is surrounded by a colder intake hose. This design minimizes heat radiating back into the room which allows for more efficient operation.

Whynter ARC-1230WN hose
The bigger, wider intake hose surrounds the smaller, circular exhaust hose of the Whynter ARC-1230WN.

The GE features a traditional dual hose design. It has two separate hoses. We measured the "hot" exhaust hose which gets considerably hotter than the outer hose of the Midea and Whynter.

10,000 SACC BTU single hose models have the hottest hoses of all. They radiate quite a bit of heat back into the room through their hoses which is counterproductive to cooling the room.

When it comes to vent temperature, the only real distinction in performance is between high SACC units and low SACC units. High SACC units (like the Midea and Whynter) output colder air. Low SACC units (like the Black+Decker and Dreo) output slightly warmer air.

Power Draw Testing

whynter power draw

We also measured each model’s power draw. This is the maximum power draw for each unit 5 minutes after powering it on for the first test:

  Power Draw (watts)
Midea Duo (MAP14S1TBL-A) 1269
Whynter ARC-1230WN 1276
GE PPHH12WWF 1396
LG LP1025WHSM 1393
Frigidaire FHPC142AA1 1371
Whirlpool WHNP141AW 1370
Black+Decker BPACT05SM 783
Dreo AC318S 760
Shinco SPF1-08C 781
SereneLife SLPAC8 760

The Midea Duo and Whynter ARC-1230WN have highly efficient inverter (variable speed) compressors, which is why they were able to draw less power than the GE PPHH12WWF even though all three models have 12,000 SACC BTUs of cooling capacity.

The Midea and Whynter are so efficient that they even draw less power than the 10,000 SACC BTU models listed above. These two units (the Midea and Whynter) are by far the most energy efficient portable air conditioners we tested.

Noise Output Testing

LG noise output test

Next, we also tested each model's noise output. These are the results:

Low Fan (dB) High Fan (dB)
Midea Duo (MAP14S1TBL-A) 52.5 63.2
Whynter ARC-1230WN 51.5 62.7
GE PPHH12WWF 52.0 62.0
LG LP1025WHSM 61.6 62.8
Frigidaire FHPC142AA1 58.4 60.7
Whirlpool WHNP141AW 58.2 62.3
Black+Decker BPACT05SM 57.2 60.2
Dreo AC318S 53.9 58.2
Shinco SPF1-08C 63.2 65
SereneLife SLPAC8 63.7 65.7

Again, the Midea and Whynter perform very well. Both models can get quieter than most competitors on low fan speed and aren’t really much louder on high fan speed.

Testing Conclusion

Based on our latest round of testing we think the Midea MAP14S1TBL-A and Whynter ARC-1230WN are clearly the two best portable AC units on the market. If you're unsure if you need as much cooling power as they provide, see our buyer's guide (our full "analysis" of portable air conditioners) further down below.

#1
14k midea verdict
#1

Midea Duo (MAP14S1TBL-A)

In first place in our rankings is the Midea MAP14S1TBL-A. The Midea, Whynter, and GE performed exceptionally well in our cooling test, but the Midea and Whynter draw significantly less power and can be set to run more quietly on low fan speed than the GE.

We selected the Midea over the Whynter as our top pick because it's easier to install. The Midea comes with five different window kit pieces and can be installed in a variety of different windows without requiring you to cut any of the pieces. The Whynter only comes with three pieces and likely will require cutting for installation.

Overall, the Midea Duo (MAP14S1TBL-A) is the best portable air conditioner we've tested so far.

 

Note: if the MAP14S1TBL-A is unavailable (it sometimes goes out of stock during peak parts of the summer) or if you also require heating functionality, get the MAP14HS1TBL-A instead. The MAP14HS1TBL-A is identical to the MAP14S1TBL-A except that it adds heating functionality.

#2
14k whynter verdict
#2

Whynter ARC-1230WN

In second place in our rankings is the Whynter ARC-1230WN. The Whynter was also a top performer in our cooling test. It actually cooled slightly faster than the Midea to 72° F though both models achieved right around the same room temperature after one hour in our testing.

The reason why the Whynter is in second place in our rankings behind the Midea is because it can be significantly more difficult to install. The ARC-1230WN comes with three equal-length window kit pieces and will more than likely require that you cut one of these pieces to properly install them in your window. We had to cut one of these pieces for the window we used for our testing, for example, and this window did not have unusual dimensions (it was about 34” wide). The Midea, for comparison, comes with five window kit pieces, four of which are of different lengths, and doesn't require any cutting for installation.

The bottom line - the Whynter is basically tied with the Midea Duo when it comes to cooling performance, energy efficiency, and noise output. Really the only negative for the Whynter compared to the Duo is that it's more difficult to install.

#3
14k frigidaire verdict
#3

Frigidaire FHPC142AA1

We recommend the Frigidaire FHPC142AA1 as the best more affordable alternative to the Midea and Whynter above. The Frigidaire is the least expensive 10,000 SACC BTU model we tested (by a significant margin) and it performed reasonably well in our cooling test. It certainly performed better than any other portable AC unit at its price point.

Analysis

An analysis of portable AC inefficiencies, cooling capacity, single vs dual hose models, etc.

icon

A portable air conditioner is an inherently inefficient appliance.

Why? Because it puts a whole AC system – which includes both cold and hot components - inside of a single portable appliance.

The cold side is good – it cools air.

The hot side is a problem.

Specifically, a single hot part – the condenser- gets hot. It’s absolutely critical for the working of the whole AC system that the condenser is constantly cooled off.

Most portable air conditioners accomplish this task by constantly pulling cooled room air over the condenser and exhausting the heated air through a duct in your window.

The problem with this solution is that the air that’s exhausted out of the room is never replaced with fresh air.

This creates a “void” – an area of low pressure - inside the room. And this, in turn, creates a pressure gradient between the cooled air in the room and warm outdoor air.

This pressure gradient moves in only one direction – from high pressure to low pressure. Thus, warm outdoor air is constantly getting pulled into the conditioned room as room air (that was used to remove heat from the condenser) is exhausted by the portable AC unit.

The technical term for the warm air that’s constantly pulled into the room is “infiltration air”.

Another substantial inefficiency of a portable air conditioner is the fact that the large duct that is exhausting the warmed air (from the condenser) is completely uninsulated and inside of the room being cooled. The exhaust hose is usually made of a thin plastic that readily radiates heat back into the room.

Cooling Capacity Standards

In the past, standardized testing for portable air conditioners was conducted in very favorable conditions:

  • at indoor temperatures of 80° F
  • at unspecified outdoor temperatures (single hose units)
  • not fully accounting for major inefficiencies

The end result? Heavily inflated cooling capacity specifications – i.e. heavily inflated BTU specifications.

The US Department of Energy (DOE) recognized this issue and instituted new rules and regulations to combat it.

Their solution? Manufacturers are now required to give portable air conditioner cooling capacity in terms of a new standard of measurement called Seasonally Adjusted Cooling Capacity – SACC for short.

Here’s the equation used to determine SACC:

SACC = ACC95 × 0.2 + ACC83 × 0.8

Note how 20% of the SACC value comes from ACC95 and 80% comes from ACC83.

But what is ACC95 and ACC83?

ACC is simply Adjusted Cooling Capacity:

ACC95 = CapacitySD − Qduct_SD − Qinfiltration_95
ACC83 = CapacitySD − Qduct_SD − Qinfiltration_83

Thus, ACC95 involves taking the overall cooling capacity of the portable air conditioner, still measured in BTUs/hr and still measured at an indoor air temperature of 80° F, but accounting for the heat added by ducting and infiltration air (outdoor air) at 95° F.

ACC83 involves the same calculation but with infiltration air (outdoor air) at 83° F.

Thus, calculating SACC does not allow for testing at unspecified outdoor air temperatures. The minimum outdoor air temperature used for testing is 83° F.

This is the outdoor air temperature accounting for 80% of the SACC. 95° F is the outdoor air temperature accounting for 20% of the score.

You may be inclined to think that weighting the score in this way still makes for a higher overall value than if the weights were equal or even reversed. And you’d be correct. Hence why it’s not surprising that manufacturers have worked very closely with the DOE to compromise on this new testing standard.

The formal explanation for choosing these weights is that it represents the average seasonal use case – the DOE expects the average portable air conditioner to be used approx. 80% of the time at outdoor temperatures close to 83° F. And only 20% of the time in a heat wave with temperatures approaching 95° F.

Single vs Dual Duct Portable Air Conditioners

So far, we’ve primarily discussed single hose portable AC units.

Another type is dual hose.

Traditional dual hose units mitigate the pressure gradient problem by adding a second hose to the system. Instead of using cooled air from inside of the room to pull over the condenser and then exhaust out of a single duct, warm outdoor air is pulled into the system via a second duct. This warm outdoor air is cool compared to the condenser and so it can still remove heat from it. After it cools the condenser the heated air is exhausted via the first duct, much the same as heated air is exhausted in a single hose unit.

The end result is that the net volume of air in the room stays much more consistent than it does with a single hose system – the addition of infiltration air to the room is minimized.

Note that certain dual hose units may still use a small portion of cooled indoor air to contribute to cooling the condenser. And so, air infiltration is never completely eliminated.

whynter inlet
Note the two slats below the left intake hole on this Whynter ARC-14S where conditioned room air enters the unit.

It’s not surprising then, to see that the equations used to calculate ACC for dual hose units still account for infiltration air at different temperatures.

The equations for ACC for dual hose units are as follows:

ACC95 = Capacity95 − Qduct_95 − Qinfiltration_95
ACC83 = Capacity83 − Qduct_83 − Qinfiltration_83

Recall that the equations for single hose units are as follows:

ACC95 = CapacitySD − Qduct_SD − Qinfiltration_95
ACC83 = CapacitySD − Qduct_SD − Qinfiltration_83

Note that while the Qinfiltration variables in both sets of equations are the same, the Qduct and Capacity variables are slightly different. This is only to account for the fact that single hose units have slightly different parameters set when measuring cooling and duct heat transfer because they have only one hose instead of two.

This raises an important point: while the addition of a second hose in a dual hose unit does make for one major advantage over single hose units – that being that they create much less of a pressure gradient and therefore minimize the introduction of infiltration air into the room – the addition of a second hose does create a few disadvantages in the process.

These include:

more radiant heat generated by the addition of a second hose

a single hose unit has only one hose that radiates heat into the room. A dual hose unit has two. And these are not small hoses. They’re at least 5” in diameter. That’s a lot of surface area from which heat radiates back into the room.

more potential gaps for air to enter into the cooled room

the connection between the hose and the window bracket is not air tight. Adding a second hose to the equation creates more opportunities for air gaps

air gaps
cooling of the condenser is not as efficient

A single hose unit uses cool room air to cool the condenser. This cools it much more efficiently than the warm outdoor air used in a dual hose unit.

the addition of a second hose makes installation more difficult

there’s less flexibility in terms of extending the length of the window bracket. The minimum length is reduced, etc. (though newer models now include very short extension panels to combat this issue)

whynter limitations

As you can see there’s quite a bit of give and take here. Yes, dual hose units do have their advantages, but they have several disadvantages as well.

The Dual Hose Myth

Contrary to what you may have read or seen elsewhere online, it’s incorrect to make the blanket statement that:

A dual hose unit is always the superior option to a single hose unit simply because it’s a dual hose unit.

The primary factor that should be driving your purchase decision is real world cooling capacity – in other words, the unit’s Seasonally Adjusted Cooling Capacity.

SACC fully takes into account the inefficiencies of both single hose and dual hose units at lower and higher outdoor temperatures.

Remember, the equations for SACC and ACC are:

SACC = ACC95 × 0.2 + ACC83 × 0.8

Where, for single hose units:

ACC95 = CapacitySD − Qduct_SD − Qinfiltration_95
ACC83 = CapacitySD − Qduct_SD − Qinfiltration_83

And for dual hose units:

ACC95 = Capacity95 − Qduct_95 − Qinfiltration_95
ACC83 = Capacity83 − Qduct_83 − Qinfiltration_83

These values account for any advantage (and disadvantage) a dual hose unit might have compared to a single hose unit: namely, the contribution of heat from infiltration air and ducting. They also take into account these effects at lower and higher outdoor temperatures – 83° F and 95° F.

If a single hose unit has a higher SACC than a dual hose unit, it will be able to cool faster. It will be able to cool a larger room. Conversely, if a dual hose unit has a higher SACC than a single hose unit it will be able to cool the room faster and cool a larger room as well.

SACC is the differentiating factor between two units – not whether one or the other is a dual hose unit or not.

Our testing showed high SACC single hose units greatly outperforming one of the highest SACC dual hose units on the market (at the time), even in extremely hot outdoor conditions.

Why? How? The number of hoses involved had nothing to do with it. The high SACC single hose units simply had a higher SACC than the high SACC dual hose unit.

A New Competitor Enters the Arena: Hose-in-Hose Design

Since the original writing of this guide, a new "type" of portable AC unit has been released to market. In the past you could only choose between single hose options – with only one hose, of course - and dual hose options – with two separate hoses.

You can now also buy models that are a hybrid of traditional single hose and dual options. Hose-in-hose models place the hot exhaust hose inside of the hose that pulls warm outdoor air inside to cool the portable AC unit’s condenser.

You only install one hose into your window, but that one house contains two different hoses.

This new design is very good. Both of our top two recommendations have this new design.

That being said, we still maintain that if you’re shopping for a portable AC unit you should prioritize SACC BTUs over design.

Don’t get distracted by single hose vs dual hose vs hose-in-hose design. What matters most is SACC BTUs. The higher the SACC BTUs, the better the portable AC unit will be able to cool no matter how many hoses it has and no matter how those hoses are connected to the unit.

SACC Compared to Traditional Cooling Capacity

With this information in mind, let’s take a look at the current lineup of the most popular portable air conditioner models on the market, sorted by SACC.

ModelTraditional BTUsSACC BTUs
Midea Duo (MAP14S1TBL-A) 14,000 12,000
Whynter ARC-1230WN 14,000 12,000
LG LP1025WHSM 14,000 10,200
Frigidaire FHPC142AA1 14,000 10,000
Whirlpool WHNP141AW 14,000 10,000
Black + Decker BPP10WTB 14,000 10,000
NewAir NAC14KWH02* 13,500 10,000
Whynter ARC-14S* 14,000 9,500
Delonghi PACEX390LVYN 14,000 8,600
LG LP0821GSSM 13,000 8,000
Black + Decker BPACT14WT* 14,000 7,700
   
GE PPHH12WWF 12,000 12,000
Midea Duo (MAP12S1TBL) 12,000 10,000
Black + Decker BPP08WTB 12,000 8,000
Frigidaire FHPW122AC1 12,000 8,000
LG LP0721WSR 12,000 7,000
Whynter ARC-122DS 12,000 7,000
Black + Decker BPACT12WT 12,000 6,500
   
Whynter ARC-102CS 10,000 7,000
Frigidaire FHPC102AC1 10,000 6,500
Black + Decker BPP06WTB 10,000 6,000
Black + Decker BPACT10WT 10,000 5,500
   
Frigidaire FHPC082AC1 8,000 5,500
Midea MAP08R1CWT 8,000 5,300
Black+Decker BPACT05SM 8,500 5,100
Black + Decker BPACT08WT 8,000 5,000
Black + Decker BPP05WTB 8,000 5,000
Dreo AC318S 8,000 5,000
Shinco SPF1-08C 8,000 4,550
SereneLife SLPAC8 8,000 4,000

Note how SACC varies dramatically even among units with the same traditional BTU specification.

For example, the Midea Duo (MAP14S1TBL-A), a 14,000 BTU unit, has a SACC of 12,000 BTUs. The Black + Decker BPACT14WT, also a 14,000 BTU unit, has a SACC of only 7,700 BTUs.

We see the same variance in SACC - a number that's much more representative of actual cooling capacity - in other traditional BTU size classes (12,000 BTU, 10,000 BTU, and 8,000 BTU size classes).

For 8,000 BTU units, for example, SACC varies between 4,000 and 5,500 BTUs (SACC).

*Units marked with a * in the table above have a higher SACC now than they did in the past. For example, the Whynter ARC-14S we tested for review only had a SACC of 8,900 BTUs. The latest version of this model now has a SACC of 9,500 BTUs.

Using SACC to Buy the Right Model

So, how do you choose which model to buy? How do you match the SACC of a particular model to the size of your room?

Here we have to dispel our second major myth of the day: Using BTUs to properly size a portable air conditioner for a room is a fool’s errand.

Take a look at the box of this LG portable air conditioner. Notice how it matches a particular room size in square feet to a particular BTU specification.

LG portable air conditioner box

Other boxes on other portable air conditioners have a similar table. Portable AC manufacturer websites use a similar table. Many other consumer guides for portable ACs use a similar table.

What is the major problem with this table? First of all, it uses traditional BTUs – not SACC  BTUs - to specify area of coverage. We just showed how one 14,000 BTU unit has at least 50% more actual cooling capacity – i.e. 50+% higher SACC – than another 14,000 BTU unit. Wouldn’t it logically follow, then, that it would have a 50% greater area of coverage? Still, almost all area of coverage tables you find printed on product packaging and online specify area of coverage in terms of traditional BTUs and not SACC BTUs.

This, however, is only the tip of the iceberg when it comes to exposing the true area of coverage for a particular portable AC unit.

The truth of the matter is this: there’s only one size portable AC unit you should buy – the highest SACC unit you can afford.

Any area of coverage table, no matter if it’s in terms of traditional BTUs or SACC BTUs, fails to take into account all of the factors that will impact the true area of coverage. That’s because it’s impossible for it to do so.

And many of these factors have a tremendous impact on the overall cooling ability of the portable air conditioner, regardless of its SACC.

Here we’re talking about factors like:

1. The surroundings - i.e. the climate the unit will be used in

The same sized room located in a climate that rarely sees temperatures over 90° F requires a unit with a much different cooling capacity than the equivalent sized room in a climate that frequently sees temperatures exceeding 100° F.

2. The room itself

the number, size, and orientation of windows in the room

a greater number of windows, a larger size window, and/or a west facing window greatly contributes to the heat added to the room and the BTUs required to cool it

the location of the room

a second+ story room requires greater cooling capacity than a first floor room

insulation/sealing the room

depending on the age of the building, the materials used for wall construction, floor construction, etc. the room may be well sealed and insulated or it may not. The worse the insulation/sealing, the more cooling is required.

3. What’s inside the room

the size and number of pieces of furniture in the room

a bedroom filled with a large bed and other large furniture has a lower volume of air (and therefore requires less BTUs) than the equivalent sq. ft. room with a small bed and/or less/smaller furniture

the number of appliances contributing heat in a room

a small room containing many electronics adding heat to the room may require more cooling than a large room containing no such appliances

4. How you use/install the AC unit

insulation/sealing

the unit will perform better if weather stripping is installed around the window bracket, if any other air gaps are taped up, if you put a towel in front of the door, etc.– you may or may not do so when you install the unit and this can affect its area of coverage

the time you choose to turn the AC unit on

Smaller capacity units need a head start when cooling certain sized rooms. If you turn them on too late into the day the room may be too hot to cool. Higher capacity units can cool the same sized room no matter when you turn it on – even if you only turn it on during the hottest part of the day (when the room is at its hottest)

being forced to put the unit in an unfavorable location

Where you put the AC unit will be limited by the length of the power cord. Most units have a power cord 4.5 and 7 ft. long – you may have to plug the unit into an outlet in an unfavorable location if you don’t have a lot of outlets in the room (e.g. you may only have one close to a west facing window)

being forced to use the unit in a way that doesn’t allow for peak performance

Most portable air conditioners have an exhaust hose with an adjustable length between about 2 and 5 ft. with the AC unit working best (at peak efficiency) with the hose extended as short as possible. Furniture, wall outlet location, etc. may dictate that you extend the hose to its maximum length which will reduce its performance.

the possibility of using the unit in different rooms over time

you may want to use the unit in a small bedroom right now, but what if you need to use it in a larger room in the future? A larger capacity unit will be required.

It’s impossible for a BTU calculator or chart to take into account this many complex factors that affect portable air conditioning sizing.

Our Testing Shows Minimum Requirements*

Our own testing showed a massive difference in performance between 12,000 SACC BTU units, 10,000 SACC BTU units, and sub 10,000 SACC BTU units even in a relatively small 100 sq. ft. room.

12,000 SACC BTU units performed the best - they cooled the room extremely quickly and to a very low temperature over time.

10,000 SACC BTU units performed reasonably well - they cooled the room relatively fast and to a modestly low temperature over time.

Sub 10,000 SACC BTU units performed very poorly - they couldn't even cool our test room down to 72° F over multiple hours, and at a very reasonable outdoor temperature.

And so, at a minimum, we recommend a unit with at least 10,000 SACC BTUs, even if the room you need to cool is relatively small.

One More Factor to Consider - Energy Efficiency

Portable AC units draw a lot of power. So much so that you'll eventually spend more to power one (on power bills) than you will to buy the unit itself. For this reason, energy efficiency is of paramount importance when buying a portable AC unit.

EER vs CEER vs SACC/watt

In the past EER (Energy Efficiency Ratio) was used to describe a portable AC’s energy efficiency.

Let’s take a look at the equation used to determine EER:

EER = BTUs per hour/Watts

For example, a 14,000 BTU model that draws 1,400 watts of power on maximum settings would have an EER of 10.0 as 14,000/1,400 = 10.0.

A 14,000 BTU unit that draws 1200 watts of power would have an EER of 11.67 as 14,000/1,200 = 11.67.

Taken at face value, this looks like a good and proper metric to use for energy efficiency. The lower the power draw (watts) compared to the cooling capacity (BTUs/hr), the higher the EER. And the higher the EER, the better the energy efficiency.

Thus, if we were to look at the EER of the two example units above we could easily say that the second has better energy efficiency because it has a higher EER – 11.67 compared to 10.0.

However, taking into account what you’ve learned so far about the old method used to determine cooling capacity (standard BTUs) vs the new method used to do so (SACC), you should be able to spot one major problem with EER. That’s right. It uses standard BTU’s – yes, the old BTU metric – in its equation.

The Department of Energy also recognized this issue with EER and acted accordingly by instituting a new metric by which to determine a portable AC unit’s energy efficiency.

That metric is called CEER – Combined Energy Efficiency Ratio.

Unfortunately, CEER is a lot more complicated than EER. The new energy efficiency ratio could have simply involved taking SACC and dividing it by maximum power draw on cooling mode in watts. But the DOE decided that the equation needed a little bit more nuance than that. Let’s take a look at the end result:

CEERSD = ACC95 × 0.2 + ACC83 × 0.8 divided by AECSP + AECT ⁄ k × t

Note: this is the equation for single hose units. The equation for dual hose units is even more complex.

We’ve already shown how

SACC = ACC95 × 0.2 + ACC83 × 0.8

Thus, the top half of the fraction (the part that goes before "divided by") in the equation can simply be replaced by SACC.

The bottom half of the fraction (the part that goes after "divided by") simply equates to power draw under specific conditions.

CEER combines the power draw of the air conditioner on all of its different modes over a set period of time; hence the name – combined energy efficiency ratio.

More specifically,

AECSD = annual energy consumption in cooling mode
AECT = total annual energy consumption attributed to all modes except cooling
t = number of cooling mode hours per year, 750.
k = 0.001 kWh/Wh conversion factor for watt-hours to kilowatt-hours.

Thus, the denominator for this equation involves accounting for power draw during cooling mode on top of certain other modes for a certain number of hours with “k” being nothing more than a conversion factor.

We can therefore say that

CEER = SACC/watts but on all modes - NOT just on cooling mode

Note that

1. the other modes involved here – standby (when the unit is plugged in but not on) and fan only (when cooling isn’t necessary and the desired temperature has been reached) - draw very little power compared to cooling mode. Thus, their impact on the CEER equation above is minimal

2. Furthermore, most models on the market draw roughly the same amount of power on these two modes – standby and fan only - which further minimizes their impact on the CEER equation above when comparing one model to another

Most models we tested do draw a few watts of power on standby (plugged in but not powered on) but they all draw very little power and roughly the same amount of power (1 or 2 watts).

Most models draw little power when only the fan is activated and most draw roughly the same amount as well (about 50 watts or so on max. fan speed).

The bottom line: the “other modes” that CEER takes into account (other than cooling mode) don’t really matter.

What does matter – cooling mode

When cooling mode is fully activated maximum power draw does vary. It tends to correlate with the old standard for measuring BTUs/hr. High BTU (14,000 BTU) units tend to draw about 1200 to 1400 watts. Lower BTU (8,000 to 12,000 BTU) units tend to draw about 750 to 1,200 watts.

So, in summary:

Power draw on fully activated cooling mode is important. It does vary. But on other modes – standby and fan only - power draw is minimal and essentially the same for different models.

This means that we can further simplify our evaluation of portable AC unit energy efficiency by simply looking at:

SACC/watts

Which only considers energy efficiency on cooling mode with maximum power draw.

Furthermore, you can make things even simpler by only using:

SACC

Since maximum power draw is so similar between units in the same traditional BTU size class, you really could just focus on SACC.

The higher the SACC, the better the unit’s energy efficiency (in most cases).

In other words, if energy efficiency = SACC/watts and watts are essentially equal in the comparison, then the higher SACC, the greater the energy efficiency.

Indeed, when we look at a table for 14,000 BTU units - all with similar power draw - we see the trend that higher SACC units have better energy efficiency (better SACC/watt ratios).

Traditional Capacity SACC WATTS SACC/WATTS
Midea Duo (MAP14S1TBL-A) 14,000 12,000 1269 9.5
Whynter ARC-1230WN 14,000 12,000 1276 9.4
LG LP1025WHSM 14,000 10,200 1393 7.3
Frigidaire FHPC142AA1 14,000 10,000 1371 7.3
Whirlpool WHNP141AW 14,000 10,000 1370 7.3
Whynter ARC-14S* 14,000 9,500 1300 7.3
Delonghi PACEX390LVYN 14,000 8,600 1345 6.4
Black + Decker BPACT14WT* 14,000 7,700 1450 5.3

We see the same trend when we compare 12,000 BTU units, 10,000 BTU units, and 8,000 BTU units – higher SACC units tend to have better energy efficiency (better SACC/watt ratios).

Traditional Capacity SACC WATTS SACC/WATTS
GE PPHH12WWF 12,000 12,000 1396 8.6
Midea Duo (MAP12S1TBL) 12,000 10,000 1200 8.3
Black + Decker BPP08WTB 12,000 8,000 1160 6.9
Frigidaire FHPW122AC1 12,000 8,000 1100 7.3
LG LP0721WSR 12,000 7,000 970 7.2
Whynter ARC-122DS 12,000 7,000 1200 5.8
Black + Decker BPACT12WT 12,000 6,500 1200 5.4
       
Whynter ARC-102CS 10,000 7,000 1110 6.3
Frigidaire FHPC102AC1 10,000 6,500 930 7.0
Black + Decker BPP06WTB 10,000 6,000 1050 5.7
Black + Decker BPACT10WT 10,000 5,500 1150 4.8
       
Frigidaire FHPC082AC1 8,000 5,500 830 6.6
Black+Decker BPACT05SM 8,500 5,100 783 6.5
Dreo AC318S 8,000 5,000 760 6.6
Shinco SPF1-08C 8,000 4,550 781 5.8
SereneLife SLPAC8 8,000 4,000 760 5.7

Putting It All Together - General Recommendations

Accounting for

  • The fact that portable AC units are inherently highly inefficient
  • All of the complex factors that impact portable air conditioner sizing (factors like the insulation of the room, whether it's on a second floor or not, etc.)
  • Our own test results which show high SACC units greatly outperforming lower SACC units even in a 100 sq. ft. room
  • The fact that higher SACC units are more energy efficient

We generally recommend you buy a portable AC unit with as much cooling capacity (SACC) as possible.

Buying a portable air conditioner with as much SACC as possible is the only way to ensure you will have a reliable portable AC unit that will be able to cool any size room no matter how difficult it is to cool.

That is why we currently recommend the Midea Duo and Whynter ARC-1230WN as the two best portable air conditioners you can buy. They both have 12,000 SACC BTUs which is the most SACC BTUs you can currently get out of a standard residential portable AC unit.

             

Secondary Factors

SACC and energy efficiency should be the primary factors that dictate your purchase decision when buying a portable air conditioner.

Now let's take a look at everything else that might factor into that decision.

Installation

Installation can be trickier than you might be anticipating.

Recall that a portable air conditioner’s hot condenser has to be cooled. Once it’s cooled, the heated air (used to cool the condenser) has to be exhausted. If you were to exhaust this air right back into the room you were cooling you wouldn’t be able to cool the room. The exhausted air would heat it right back up.

So, instead, the exhausted air is pushed through a large diameter hose that’s attached to a window bracket that fits into a partially opened window.

Portable AC installation requires three primary components

1. The hose connecting the back of the AC (where hot air is exhausted) to the window bracket.

The hose has an adapter on each end. One that connects the hose to the AC and one that connects the hose to the window bracket.

These adapters usually come pre-installed on the hose. However, sometimes they do not. And when they don’t, they can be quite difficult to install. For example, the LG LP17WSR series of units require that you pull the end of the hose into the end adapters using pliers. A lot of force and a bit of finesse is required to pull the hose into each adapter properly. In contrast, a unit like the LG LP1419IVSM comes with both end adapters installed so none of this work is required.

All hoses can be extended from a minimum length in the 16” to 24” range to a maximum length in the 5 ft. range. All the hoses for all of the ACs we tested were about 5” in diameter.

Note that all manufacturers recommend that the hose be kept as short as possible. This is to ensure that the AC runs at peak efficiency. Most manufacturers warn against extending the hose. For example, the Honeywell HL14CESWB has a sticker right on the hose warning that extending it will void the unit’s warranty.

Some manufacturers are not as critical of hose extension. Whynter even sells a 5 ft. extension separately although they don’t recommend extending the hose beyond a total distance of 9 ft. and they still recommend that the hose be kept as short as possible.

2. The window bracket and any extensions.

Window kits vary in

  • min/max length
  • versatility – the range of in-between lengths that can be accommodated without cutting

All kits come with a primary window bracket – the bracket that the hose actually fits into – and one or multiple extension brackets.

The primary bracket determines the minimum length of the kit. The shorter this bracket the lower the minimum width of the window that can be accommodated. The top rated Midea Duo does very well here. Its primary bracket is only about 19” long. Many competitors come with primary brackets that are much longer. For example, the Whynter ARC-1230WN's primary bracket is 28" long.

If the primary bracket is too long for your window you won’t have any choice other than to cut it to the correct length. A saw that can cut plastic (like a hacksaw) will be required.

Let's say your window is slightly wider than the length of the primary bracket. In this case you will need to add an extension to the primary bracket.

Again, the top rated Midea Duo does well. It adds multiple short extensions. So that you can extend the primary bracket from 19" to just over 19" without obstructing the hole through which the unit needs to exhaust.

The Whynter ARC-1230WN is again an example of a unit that doesn't do well in this aspect. It only comes with long extensions. The minimum length of the primary bracket + the extension bracket is 41". If your window is between 28" (length of primary bracket) and 41" (minimum length of primary bracket + extension) wide you will need to cut its extension bracket to fit the kit into your window. If you don't cut the extension and try to reduce the length of the primary bracket + extension (to less than 41" long), the extension will obstruct the hole through which the unit needs to exhaust.

The following table shows the minimum window width for one (primary bracket) and two brackets (primary + extension) for all of the portable air conditioners we tested most recently. If your window's width falls somewhere between the length described in the first vs the second column, then you will have to cut an extension to install the respective model's window kit.

  One Piece Min. (in.) Two Piece Min. (in.)
Midea MAP14S1TBL-A 19 1/8 19 1/8+
Whynter ARC-1230WN 28 1/4 41
GE PPHH12WWF 19 13/16 19 13/16+
LG LP1025WHSM 20 1/2 30 7/16
Frigidaire FHPC142AA1 18 9/16 28
Whirlpool WHNP141AW 19 7/8 19 7/8+
Black+Decker BPACT05SM 20 1/2 28 5/8
Dreo AC318S 17 11/16 17 11/16+
Shinco SPF1-08C 26 9/16 36 7/8
SereneLife SLPAC8 26 9/16 36 7/8

The number and size of extensions determines the maximum length of the kit. The following table describes the total number of window kit pieces that are included and the maximum width of the window into which these kits can be installed:

  Nr. of pieces Max. length (in.)
Midea MAP14S1TBL-A 5 63 4/5
Whynter ARC-1230WN 3 80 1/2
GE PPHH12WWF 5 63
LG LP1025WHSM 2 39 15/16
Frigidaire FHPC142AA1 3 51
Whirlpool WHNP141AW 3 48 1/8
Black+Decker BPACT05SM 2 39 1/2
Dreo AC318S 4 53 1/2
Shinco SPF1-08C 2 50
SereneLife SLPAC8 2 50 3/16

3. Weather stripping

Window kit brackets are made of a hard material. So is the bottom of the window sash, the window sill and the side jambs of the window into which you’re fitting these brackets. Not to mention the fact that the brackets may not perfectly fit into channels in the bottom of the sash, the sill and/or side jambs.

To improve fitment and eliminate air gaps you can install weather stripping between the AC window kit brackets and all of these window components.

Most manufacturers include weather stripping with the purchase of their portable ACs. The only two manufacturers that don’t necessarily include weather stripping are Whynter and NewAir.

Most manufacturers (including Midea, LG, Honeywell, and Frigidaire) include

compact sponge adhesive weather stripping in different lengths

intended for lower rail of window sash, sill, and jambliner

less compact foam non-adhesive weather stripping in different lengths

intended for the gap between sashes when the bottom sash is raised to fit the AC’s window kit

Some models come with more or less weather stripping than others. For example, the Midea Duo comes with more weather stripping than any other model on the market. The Honeywell HL14CESWB comes with much less but still enough to get the job done in most applications. The GE PPHH12WWF is one of the most expensive portable AC units we've tested, and doesn't come with any weather stripping.

You can, of course, always buy weather stripping separately. But having it included with your purchase is certainly a nice bonus.

We also strongly advise that you buy duct tape along with any portable AC unit you end up purchasing. The tape can be used as an additional tool to eliminate air gaps.

For example, the NewAir NAC14KWH02’s primary window bracket has a unique locking mechanism to adjust the length of the extension. This mechanism is not tightly sealed. Once you have the whole window kit installed for this unit we would recommend taping over the mechanism.

Noise Output

Sound characteristics

All portable AC units are noisy. They generally produce two different types of noise:

  • fan noise
  • compressor noise

The fans on a portable AC tend to be very loud – at least on maximum fan speed. So much so that fan noise is generally louder than compressor noise (again, on maximum fan speed). This is actually a good thing as fan noise is essentially a clean white noise (the sound of air moving) while compressor noise is a much harshes noise (usually a buzzing noise). With the fan’s noise level exceeding the compressor’s noise level the more pleasant sounding noise generated by the unit’s fan can mask the much less pleasant sounding noise generated by its compressor.

A portable AC’s compressor noise is in fact so unpleasant, that you will almost always opt to run your portable AC on maximum fan speed. Lower fan speeds make for a very unpleasant listening experience.

Note that the soft thump of the compressor kicking in (when cooling mode is activated) and shutting off (when the desired temperature is reached) – an altogether different noise compared to the general buzzing of the compressor - is definitely noticeable, but only if you’re paying careful attention to the unit’s noise output (like we were when we were testing these units).

In regular day to day use it shouldn’t bother the average user too much. The fan noise is loud enough (assuming it’s on high fan speed) to drown out much of the sound when the compressor first kicks in or shuts off. For night time use we suggest setting the unit to as low of a temperature as possible (for most units this is 60° F). This will keep the compressor running throughout the night and minimize unique sounds generated when the compressor is activated/deactivated.

Sound levels

So far we’ve told you that portable air conditioners are loud but just how loud are they?

Most manufacturers list noise levels in the low 50 dB range, many touting their units as being “whisper quiet”. And indeed, on low fan speed, even with the compressor on, at least a few of the units we tested were measured in the low 50s (dB).

But, while noise levels are lower on low fan speed, the quality of the noise produced is extremely unpleasant. Without the overpowering effect of high fan noise, compressor noise dominates the perceived noise at these lower noise levels. And this compressor noise is highly unpleasant.

On high fan speed the measured noise level jumps up to about 60 to 65 dB (measured at 2 ft. away from the unit) but the noise is much more bearable as it’s dominated by fan noise instead of compressor noise.

For example, the top rated Midea Duo - was measured at only 52.5 dB of noise output on low fan speed with cooling mode activated (compressor activated). This is very low noise output.

However, on this setting (cooling mode on low fan speed), the Duo still generates compressor noise just like every other portable AC we tested, and you can hear this compressor noise above the unit's fan noise.

On high fan speed, the Duo is much louder - it was measured at 63.2 dB - but the noise it produces is much more pleasant-sounding because fan noise masks compressor noise on this setting.

Our latest noise output test results see here near the top of the page.

Portability

All portable AC units are large and heavy appliances. All units – even 8,000 and 10,000 BTU units.

8,000 BTU and 10,000 BTU units do tend to weigh in the 45 to 60 lb. range while 12,000 and 14,000 BTU units tend to weigh in the 60 to 75 lb. range.

But, even 45 lb. is still very heavy. And if you can’t lift 75 lb. by yourself, chances are that you won’t be able to lift 45 lb. either.

In terms of size, certain low BTU units are a little smaller but not by much. For example, the Frigidaire FFPA0822U1 is an the 8,000 BTU unit and one of the smallest units on the market but it’s still almost 2.5 ft. tall – only about 2 inches shorter than the 14,000 BTU LG LP1419IVSM.

There are, of course, outliers in each size class. For example, the 14,000 BTU Whynter ARC-14S is a full 3 ft. tall and weighs over 80 lb. The 12,000 BTU Frigidaire FGPC1244T1 is similarly tall and heavy.

But, for the most part, most portable air conditioners fall in the 50 to 70 lb. range and are about 2.5 ft. tall.

To combat this lack of portability all units come equipped with high quality heavy duty casters. So, while you will absolutely need to exert quite a bit of effort to pick a portable air conditioner up (e.g. take it up or down a set of stairs) you can move it between rooms on the same floor quite easily.

Midea Duo casters
Casters on the Midea Duo.

General Settings and Features

Par for the course

Most portable ACs come equipped with the same three modes

  • cool – the standard mode for cooling a room
  • dry – a dehumidifier mode
  • fan – a fan only mode

Almost all units come equipped with

  • three fan speeds – high, medium, and low
  • a thermostat that lets you set the desired temperature between 60° F and at least 86° F
  • a timer that can usually be set in 1 hour increments up to 24 hours
  • a remote

Differentiating factors

Generally, higher BTU units can remove more pints/day in dehumidifier mode. For example, the 14,000 BTU Midea Duo can remove as much as 125 pints of moisture from the air per day. The 8,000 BTU Frigidaire FFPA0822U1 can only remove 67 pints/day.

Some units do have certain unique features but this is extremely rare. For example, the LG LP1419IVSM gives you the ability to adjust the brightness and even turn the display LEDs completely off for night time use. It also has a compartment on the back of the main body of the unit to store your window kit during the off-season. No other unit currently on the market (other than the very similar LG LP1022FVSM) offers either one of these features.

Certain units also include a drainage hose for continuous drainage during dry (dehumidifier) mode operation but this is true for only a few units on the market.

Durability

Most of the portable air conditioners we tested appear to be reasonably durable and reliable appliances. The Department of Energy cites the average lifespan of a portable AC as being 10 years which confirms this observation.

The only potential concern we can list here is that certain units have no filter for intake air on the condenser side of the system.

We see the most egregious example of this with the dual hose Whynter ARC-14S. There’s absolutely no filter (the plastic grate on the intake hose is not a filter) for outdoor air as it enters the unit to cool its condenser. The NewAir NAC14KWH02 intakes indoor air to cool the condenser and doesn’t have a filter either.

Will this create reliability issues for either unit down the line of ownership? The ARC-14S, the more extreme example (because it intakes outdoor air), has been on the market for several years now and it doesn’t appear that it has, at least not for this particular model.

Finally, we should mention that almost all portable air conditioners come with a very similar 1 year warranty. You cannot buy a particular model that comes with a longer manufacturer’s warranty.

Portable AC Reviews

Reviews for all the portable air conditioners we've tested.

 

Black+Decker

BPACT05SM

BPP10WTB

Dreo

AC318S

Frigidaire

FHPC142AA1

FFPA Series

Midea

Duo

SereneLife

SLPAC8

Shinco

SPF1-08C

Whirlpool

WHNP141AW

Add a Comment

Have a question or comment? Let us know below.

 
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Comments (7)

John Asays...

This is a wonderful site for well explained information for decision making.

I was originally looking at just looking prices and ratings for a portable AC unit and wound up spending more for true efficiency.

Bought the LG LP1419IVSM based on information I investigated here on this site. The Midea Duo dual hose application looks like it's less versatile for moving the unit to one side of a window it's vented out. We'll see if my LG purchase decision paid off when I receive the unit.

Thanks for putting together such an amazingly informative bunch of information !

Bobsays...

Great article, even fantastic.

Adamsays...

I have no idea who you are or where Consumer Analysis came from, but wow! This is real, technical reporting.

What an amazing summary of portable AC units. I had to spend weeks learning all of this myself. Having bought a LG unit 4 years ago for ~$600cdn, I was utterly disappointed in its performance. At the time, SACC was not a thing and it was not a metric available for comparison. Now it is stated that unit was 14k btu/10k sacc.

I recently purchased a Midea MP12 model (14k btu/12k sacc) and can not wait to test it out, as the sacc btu difference between the two is quite a lot.

One thing the article could use is that manufacturers are playing word games with the ratings systems. Instead of using SACC, some use (US DOE), which is extremely confusing.

In any case, great article! I will be recommending your site from now on versus consumer reports.

Jessesays...

Is there any model and kit that you would recommend for use with a sliding glass door? I do not have any traditional windows and will either need to buy something compatible with a kit for a sliding glass door or just DIY the gap between the included window adapter and the rest of the door.

David Esays...

Would it be true to say that the LG LP1419IVSM will dehumidify more quickly than your top rated dehumidifier model, the Frigidaire FFAD5033W1?

From what I gather, the bucket size of the Frigidaire FFAD5033W1 being 16.9 pint size would require emptying 2.95 times per day; but if I'm understanding correctly, the LG LP1419IVSM running in "dry" mode would remove 163 pints of moisture per day and would require "emptying" much more frequently due to its greater efficiency and also minuscule "bucket."

I'm trying to kill two birds with one stone here and just get the LG LP1419IVSM to handle both tasks, but not sure how well it will perform it's dehumidifying duties. Also not sure of "bucket size" on LG LP1419IVSM.

Consumer Analysissays...

You would absolutely need to drain the LP1419IVSM (using a hose or draining directly into something). It has more of an overflow tank (with a very low volume) than it does a bucket (like the FFAD5033W1) to collect moisture.

However, outside of this caveat, it should be able to dehumidify better than the FFAD5033W1.

Timothy Welchsays...

What if any portable a/c units are equipped with a condensate pump

Consumer Analysissays...

I'm not aware of any such portable AC units on the market.

Brandonsays...

How many pints of water does the tank hold?

Consumer Analysissays...

Most portable AC units have very small tanks ( with only a few pints of capacity at most). On cooling mode most moisture is evaporated through the unit's exhaust hose.