Whynter ARC-14S Review
The Whynter ARC-14S is marketed and sold as a 14,000 BTU portable air conditioner.
But it’s actual cooling capacity in the real world is much less.
It’s less for three primary reasons
1. the unit has multiple ducts - one pulls in warm air from the outdoors and the other exhausts hot air to the outdoors. The ducts are “sealed” but they’re very large (about 5 inches in diameter) and made of a thin plastic material.
The end result is that both of these ducts radiate heat back into the room as the ARC-14S works hard to cool it. This addition of heat to the room via the unit’s ducting causes the actual cooling capacity to be less than 14,000 BTUs.
2. the unit’s actual cooling capacity is also lower than its specified capacity because of infiltration air.
Infiltration air is warm outdoor air that gets pulled into the conditioned room due to pressure differences between the outdoor air and the indoor air.
The ARC-14S creates these pressure differences as it exhausts air out of the room. Since it’s a dual hose unit it does pull in almost as much air as it exhausts – but not exactly the same amount of air. The unit also pulls in air from the conditioned room through a grille on the back of the unit. All of this amounts to a pressure difference – less of a difference than what a single hose unit would create – but a difference nonetheless.
And this pressure difference causes warm outdoor air to get pulled into the room which reduces the unit’s actual cooling capacity.
3. The last reason why the unit’s actual cooling capacity is much less than 14,000 BTU has to do with the conditions under which it is tested. Portable AC units tend to perform much better – have a better cooling capacity – when outdoor temperatures are lower. Conversely, they perform worse when outdoor temperatures are high.
Under the old standard for testing portable AC units, the outdoor temperature at which they were tested was relatively mild. Under a new standard, called seasonally adjusted cooling capacity (SACC), outdoor test temperatures are higher – more representative of real world applications.
SACC also accounts for heat added by ducting and infiltration air.
The Whynter ARC-14S has a SACC of only 8,900 BTUs (different online sources give different exact numbers but the value is always between approx. 8,500 and 8,900 BTUs).
This means that accounting for
- heat added by ducting
- heat added by infiltration air
- conditions (outdoor temperatures) that are more representative of real world applications
Causes this unit’s cooling capacity to drop by more than 5,000 BTUs!
How does this compare to the competition?
In the 14,000 BTU size class, SACC varies from 7,500 BTUs all the way up to 10,000 BTUs.
The most efficient “14,000 BTU” unit, the LG LP1419IVSM, has an actual cooling capacity (SACC) of only 10,000 BTUs. This is still a substantial drop off but not quite as egregious as that of the Whynter ARC-14S.
The least efficient units have their BTUs almost cut in half. The Honeywell MM14CCS, for example, is marketed and sold as a 14,000 BTU portable air conditioner but it’s actual cooling capacity (SACC) is only 7,500 BTUs.
Portable air conditioners in other size classes see a similar drop off.
The most efficient “12,000 BTU” unit has a SACC of only 7,200 BTUs.
The most efficient “10,000 BTU” unit has a SACC of only 6,500 BTUs.
The ARC-14S draws 1250 watts of power operating at maximum cooling capacity. This is actually a little bit less than the power draw of most other 14,000 BTU units.
Most 14,000 BTU units draw closer to 1400 watts. The LG LP1419IVSM, for example, draws 1370 watts.
But does the Whynter’s lower power draw make it the more energy efficient unit?
Under the old standard for calculating energy efficiency – using EER (energy efficiency ratio) – it would appear that it does.
EER = BTUs/watts
Thus, the Whynter would have an EER of 14,000/1250 = 11.2.
The LG LP1419IVSM would have an EER of 14,000/1370 = 10.2.
The Whynter has the higher ratio so it would be appear to have the higher energy efficiency.
But consider for a moment our discussion earlier regarding claimed BTUs and actual BTUs. We showed how SACC BTUs are much more representative of actual cooling capacity than claimed BTUs.
So, wouldn’t using SACC BTUs be more representative of actual energy efficiency?
Yes, it certainly would. Even though the conventional way for calculating energy efficiency – EER – involves using claimed BTUs.
Using SACC instead of claimed BTUs we get
8,900/1250 = 7.1 for the Whynter ARC-14S and
10,000/1370 = 7.3 for the LG LP1419IVSM.
This is the exact opposite result of what we get using EER. The LG LP1419IVSM now appears to be the more efficient unit. And in a real world application, it would be the more energy efficient unit.
Note that the difference in ratios – 7.1 vs 7.3 - is not much. The ARC-14S is certainly not energy inefficient for its size class. All we’re saying is that it may not be as energy efficient as advertised.
That’s not to say that there aren’t any inefficient 14,000 BTU units on the market. The LG LP1417GSR, for example, has a ratio of only 5.8. The Honeywell MM14CCS has a ratio of only 6.3.
Thus, the ARC-14S is less energy efficient than the most energy efficient 14,000 BTU unit on the market, the LG LP1419IVSM, but it’s more energy efficient than most other 14,000 BTU units on the market.
Pros and Cons
- Lower SACC than top rated 14,000 BTU units like the LG LP1419IVSM, but still relatively high SACC for a 14,000 BTU unit
- Slightly lower energy efficiency than top rated units, but still more energy efficient than most other 14,000 BTU units
- Comes with a few extras that no other 14,000 BTU unit comes with - a. caps for the holes in its window bracket (allows you to keep the bracket installed even when the unit’s hoses are not connected) and b. a cover for storage
- Dual hoses – two times as many hoses to deal with as a single hose unit during installation; because there are two holes in the window bracket instead of one there’s less room for adjustment of the length of the window bracket using extensions (see window kit in slideshow below)
- One of the largest and heaviest portable AC units on the market Large – a shade under 3 ft. tall. Most other units are only about 2.5 ft. tall. Heavy – over 80 lb. Most other portable AC units weigh in the 50 to 70 lb. range. Most other 14,000 BTU units weigh in the 60, low 70 lb. range.
Compared to top rated units in the category like the LG LP1419IVSM, the ARC-14S has
- Lower SACC
- Lower energy efficiency
- Lower build quality
Like the LG,
- It has approximately the same noise output
- Has just about the same modes/feature set – although LG does allow you to turn off lights
- Also comes with a remote
Still, this unit’s lower SACC and energy efficiency is a bit of a deal breaker. Our own testing showed a quantum leap in performance going from a sub 9,000 BTU (SACC) unit like this one to a 9,000+ BTU (SACC) unit like the LG.
Higher SACC units cooled much faster and to lower temperatures even in a relatively small test environment – only 150 sq. ft.
Given the choice between this Whynter unit and the LG, the clear choice is the LG.
If price is a motivating factor for you, we would recommend something like the LG LP1017WSR.
The LG LP1017WSR is much cheaper and will do just as bad of a job in
- Large rooms
- Difficult to cool rooms (second story, many windows, high outdoor temperatures, etc.)
As the ARC-14S. For such environments a 9,000+ BTU (SACC) unit like the LP1419IVSM is really your only option.
- Smaller rooms
- Easier to cool rooms
You can get by with the cheaper LG LP1017WSR just as much as you would be able to with the ARC-14S.
Additional specifications and notes
Window Kit Included Parts – primary window bracket, long extension, short extension
8x screws for 2x grates ("fixtures") that screw into window bracket and fit into hose connectors
2x "covers" that fit into fixtures when hose is not connected to window bracket
Window Kit Adjustment – 2x screws on either side of primary bracket that attach it to either extension
Window Kit Min - 19 7/8" (20” spec)
Window Kit Max – 46 ¼” (47” spec) with long extension on one side and short extension on other side and with screws holding three pieces together (could go longer with no screw attachment)
With no screw attachment you can add about 1.5” on each side so 49 ¼” if you DIY it
Weather stripping included – none
End Adapters – not pre-installed but they screwed in very easily (turn hose connector counterclockwise onto end of hose)
AC Side Hose Connection – just press in – clicks in on both sides. Rotate end and pull to remove
Window Kit Side Hose Connection – with grates already screwed into window bracket, just press end of hose into the grate (clicks in on two sides)
Hose Min/Max – 23.5" to 66"
Modes – cool, dry, fan
Set temp range - 61 to 89° F
Fan speeds - 3
Timer - yes, 1 to 24 hr in 1 hr increments – to set press timer button and then plus minus buttons
Lights turn off - no
Dehumidifier mode pints/day – 101 pints/day
Drainage options - manual drainage only (single plug at back bottom)
Drain hose – none included
Top filter (evaporator) - only unit tested with carbon filter Carbon filter leaves residue everywhere when taken out of plastic.
Regular grille and air filter is a little bit wonky but fits together in only one way and wasn't much of an issue to remove/replace.
However, when trying to add carbon filter to the equation, it gets even more tricky to put everything together.
Our recommendation – don’t use the carbon filter – it needs to be replaced at cost (cannot simply be cleaned) and it has minimal impact (supposed to reduce odors/VOCs but you can buy an air purifier separately for that purpose)
Bottom filter (condenser) - no filter for condenser with air coming from outside with only plastic grate – intake filter sold separately.
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FYI. The intake hose installation is optional. I ended up not installing it and let the intake suck in the air from the room instead of the outside.
There is no pressure difference because there are two ducts.
Single duct machine pull air into the dwelling through all doorways and windows, due to the vacuum created by blowing the hot air out through the single duct.
If you feel that the machines outgoing duct is too hot, you can always insulate it. Also the duct on the single duct machine gets hot as well.